Most of us pick up an Alexandre Dumas book expecting duels, royal intrigue, and daring escapes. Le Corricolo gives you none of that, and yet it's completely brilliant. Published in 1843, it's the collected account of Dumas's journey through the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, with a heavy focus on the explosive city of Naples.

The Story

There's no single plot. Think of it as a series of vivid, connected snapshots. Dumas hires a local carriage, the 'corricolo' of the title, and uses it as his ticket to everywhere. He doesn't just visit Pompeii or Vesuvius like a regular tourist. He seeks out the living pulse of the city. He gets tangled with cunning ciceroni (guides), observes the raw spectacle of religious festivals that feel more like street parties, and ventures into the shadowy world of the lazzaroni—the vast underclass of Naples. The book's drive comes from the stories people tell him: chilling legends of the bandit Fra Diavolo, secret rituals of the Camorra, and ghostly tales that feel utterly real in the city's ancient, narrow streets. The 'story' is Dumas trying to understand a place that is equal parts breathtaking beauty and brutal survival.

Why You Should Read It

This is Dumas unfiltered. His personality jumps off the page—he's witty, easily amazed, sometimes gullible, and always passionately curious. You see the novelist's mind at work, collecting characters and scenes that would later fuel his fiction. Reading Le Corricolo feels like getting a backstage pass to history. This isn't the polished, political history of kings and treaties. It's the messy, loud, smelly, and vibrant history of everyday people. You learn about the strange marriage customs of Procida, the terrifying power of local superstitions, and the dark humor Neapolitans used to face hardship. It’s immersive in a way few history books are.

Final Verdict

Perfect for travelers who love history, or history buffs who love a good story. If you enjoy books like Patrick Leigh Fermor's travelogues or even the anecdotal depth of a good podcast, you'll fall into this. It's also a must for Dumas fans who want to meet the man behind the novels. Fair warning: it's a product of its time, so some observations are decidedly 19th-century. But if you can view it as a fascinating historical document and a wildly entertaining ride through a lost world, you're in for a treat. Pack your literary bags—this trip is unforgettable.